In the latest revision of this kit, Duffy put a tapped hole on the adapter plate to be used for a vent. Now you just need to address the vent tube for the front case. (And yes, you’re allowed to giggle as you make it spin in double low while its on the bench). Give everything a spin to makes sure it feels good while you’re at it. Don’t force it! It will slide in easily once everything lines up. Plop the shaft in and slide the planetary set back into the front of the case (It helps to rotate it as you insert it). I left mine stock at this point to keep from having to clearance the cab too much: This is also the point in which you get to decide to clock the rear case if you want. Getting under the shift fork is a pain for folks with big hands! TIP: Drill a hole in the sift fork to allow you to get to the allen bolt underneath it (I forgot to do that, it would have made life easy). It would have been nice to have the rail ‘float’ instead which would allow you to pull the shift fork out while tightening down these screws. Instead of having the shift rail screwed to the back side of the adapter plate (another place to possibly leak). This is my only other complaint about this kit. Seal up the adapter and block off plates, don’t forget to tighten up the screw for the new shift rail!:Īfter the sealant has set on the front case, slap some sealant on the surface between the adapter plates and screw them together. Once the blocks fit to your liking, its time to clean out the case and swap the shift rails out: I opted for the latter as this is just an Aluminum transfer case, I want to be able to pop these blocks off in the future if something were to happen the doubler case. You can either have these welded on, or just use some form-a-gasket to seal them off. It would have been nice to have the plates a little closer to the right size (minor complaint, I realize that).After whacking off about 3/8” off the plates, and doing some rough grinding: This is the one spot I’m a little disappointed in the kit. Slap the adapter plate back on to check your cut line and grind to your liking (Note: the vent shown was not supplied in Duffy’s kit, I picked that one up at Home Depot, more on that later):Īfter you’ve done some grinding to get rid of the excess T-case stock, you get to start trimming the block off plates to fit. Remove the snap ring holding the front yoke on, and pull the planetary gear set out (bolts on the front of the BW1350), and get cutting!:
Make sure you leave some “fluff” that you can clean up with a grinder later: Once the case is split, lay the adapter plate on top of the BW1350 and mark a cut line. Unbolt the case halves and everything just falls apart (Note: if you pull the Rear yoke off, it is a little easier to split the case. I started out with the Box + Tranny adapter: Now it’s time to start tearing the BW1350 apart to prep it for cutting. That being, slapping on the rear adapter plate. Once that’s done, you get to move to the first portion of your doubler build. Then grind your 90° elbow to allow it to spin onto the case, and stick your old breather vent into the 90° elbow to finish this part off: Remove the stock breather and do a little clearance grinding on the case: Either drill and tap a new one, or make a 90° elbow work as I did. But before you can slap it together, you’ll need to do something about the breather as it will be in the way of the dobuler adapter plate. Rear case portion of this is stupid simple to put together (BW1354 case). Once you have the kit, you’ll need a BW1354 (either an E or M will work as this is the rear case):Īnd also a BW1350 (Manual) case for the front:
#Dual stick ranger plus#
If you really had to hammer though it, you could probably knock this project out in a day easy (day + plus whatever time you need for the form-a-gasket to cure).ĭuffy’s kit comes with the adapter plates, block off plates, all the bolts needed, shorter shift rail, and the all-important splined shaft: The kit really is quite simple to put together (heck, even a goofball like me managed to get it done without too much of an issue). I’m using the D&D Machine kit from Duffy (he also makes the “Box For Rocks” kits for the Jeep stuff as well). I don’t know if the gear driven cases are any more complicated, but my guess is that they’re even simpler. Thankfully it turns out that they’re quite a bit simpler than I thought they would be. This is my first foray into any transfer case.
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